Story By Casey Adams. Photos by Kassia Vinsel & Giselle Coronado
Mesa Verde Country is at a unique intersection of timeless culture and natural wonders. Building a visit around both allows you to experience the landscape through the eyes of ancient peoples and enduring cultures, and to appreciate them in modern style with the latest comforts. This itinerary will walk (and hike and bike and paddle) you through ancestral Puebloan structures as well as the newest trails and community experiences. You’ll leave with stories as interconnected as those of the green mesa itself.
Day 1: Strolling & Saddles
Getting to Cortez is surprisingly easy by air. A short connection from Denver International Airport puts you in the small city of Cortez, the biggest hub in Mesa Verde Country. Secret perk: Though the plane is small, the leg room is very generous!
To get around Mesa Verde Country, you’ll want a car, so be sure to set up a rental in advance. Once you’re set with your wheels, start getting familiar with the area by parking in downtown Cortez and strolling any jet lag away. Stop in at the Visitor Center for maps and tips from helpful locals, and then make your way to the Cortez Cultural Center, where you can learn about the enduring art of pottery rooted in the soils of the area. Make plans to come back on Tuesday night for a Native dance exhibition and to shop local pottery at Mesa Verde Pottery just down the road.
By now, you’re starting to get a sense of the depth of history here, and you may be ready to start getting in touch with it yourself. Enjoy a lunch from Once Upon a Sandwich or FB market, then make your way to your first adventure-meets-history experience.
Soak up the views on your drive down McElmo Canyon just outside of Cortez. Just a few miles into this stunning valley, you’ll find Canyon Trails Ranch, the only outfitter with a permit to conduct trail rides in Canyons of the Ancients National Monument. Your wrangler will not only pair you with the perfect horse for your abilities, they will also take you to ancient stone structures and cliff dwellings and educate you on the presence of ancestral Puebloans in the National Monument.
At the end of your first day of intertwining art, history, outdoor recreation, and culture in Mesa Verde Country, it’s time to settle in for a big meal rich in regional influence. The Loungin’ Lizard is the perfect place for local flavors rooted in ancient farming practices, like green chilis and prickly pear margaritas.
Day 2: walking through history
Mesa Verde Country is home to a wealth of knowledgeable locals, and the best way to follow the cultural storyline from ancestral Puebloans to Hopi influences to today’s Ute Mountain Utes is to do so with one of them. Most local tours combine historical and archaeological sites with hiking, once again bringing the great outdoors and cultural exploration together.
One of the most direct, authentic ways to connect with Indigenous culture personally is to take a tour of the Ute Mountain Tribal Park with a Native American guide. This is also the only way to access the Ute Mountain Tribal Park. Arranging a tour can be challenging at times, with staffing and scheduling hurdles, but if you’re unable to reserve a tour don’t worry; there are many other excellent resources for guided tours in the area.
Cortez Tours weaves history, folk lore, and information about southwest Colorado into their walking tours, which can be tailored to fit any guest’s accessibility needs.
The Southwest Colorado Canyons Alliance tours cover Ancestral Puebloan culture, archeology, plantlife, wildlife, and more in Canyons of the Ancients National Monument.
The Crow Canyon Archaeological Center offers in-depth small group travel programs guided by experts in developing Indigenous respect.
No matter the tour you take, you’ll end the day with a mind full of knowledge and a heart richer in understanding.
Make Mancos your home base for the night. Consider the endlessly creative Mesa Verde Motel in Mancos or the appropriately themed Dolores Bike Hostel for a beautiful, affordable stay.
Day 3: cycles & cycles
Start the day with a big breakfast and a full water bottle because you’re going for a bike ride! Whether you brought your own bike or rent one locally, clip your helmet and look to the mesa standing guard over the valley: that’s where you’re headed.
Mesa Verde Country’s roads are well maintained with friendly shoulders, so there won’t be any stress making your way to the entrance of Mesa Verde National Park. Grab a map and any advice from the ranger at the entrance and pedal on.
Cycling through a place like Mesa Verde National Park gives you a more intimate connection to the area and more time to really take in the views than if you’re driving. That being said, keep your head up and watch for cars sharing the more narrow park roads. Many of the scenic and interpretive stops are near the top of the mesa so take your time, hydrate, and reapply sunscreen as needed. Remember, you’re making a day of this! There are also several restaurants within the park where you can rest your legs and replenish calories.
Plan ahead for your pace and reserve your spot on a ranger-led tour. These immersive tours bring you into cliff dwellings with knowledgeable rangers. Participation must be reserved in advance and is well worth the planning and the climb on your bike. Remember to carry closed-toed walking shoes with traction for the tour.
After exploring the park from this unique perspective (including seeing all the cafes, in true cyclist style), zip back down the road (with glee and precaution) and point your handlebars toward Mancos.
An evening in Mancos, just a smooth, 8-mile pedal away, will be the icing on top of your ride. Settle in at Fenceline Cidery for a local brew, food-truck grub, and possibly live music!
The injection of local taste (from the apples that grew nearby to make your cider to the food served up by that night’s cook to entertainment provided by people who call Mesa Verde Country home), will align with everything you just learned about the people who long ago grew crops, gathered at day’s end for a meal, and shared artistry.
Day 4: rinse & repeat
After a couple of big days in the saddle, it’s time for some low-key outdoor time. Fill your cooler with snacks, sandwiches, and seltzers and head to Mancos State Park. Make a day of paddling, sunning, and birding in this peaceful gem of a park. You may even cast a line to see if you can hook one of the trout or perch of the reservoir.
End the day with a show and dessert at Dotty Wampus, the delightful and delicious chocolatier-slash-showman who is making a mark in Cortez.
After your restful day, you won’t need a vacation from your vacation. You’ll head home refreshed, relaxed, and just the right amount of tired. Inspired for another week? Come back for more exploration!
